Thursday 8 December 2011

Doon Gardening Society Monthly News Letter – February


Doon Gardening Society Monthly News Letter – February


Dear Gardeners,

Welcome to a Colourful month of February

 The winters are slowing giving way to the spring. There may be some rains during the first week of February, which is quite normal during this period. The day temperature in Dehra Dun is now around 18 - 21° C and the night comes down to 06 - 08° C.



The month of February is a time when the weather can either turn your garden into an Eden, or a wasteland. Be aware of the weather forecasts and trends.

Gardening guides and hardiness are based on past years averages, and cannot predict a freak frost or snowstorm, or a prolonged spring drought. If a frost or cold weather is in the forecast, protect your tender plants with mulch, newspapers, light cloth or some type of overnight protection or a frost cap made with clear poly film tented over the plants. (Be sure to remove the plastic tent as soon as the danger is over or your plants will bake in the sun).

On the other extreme, if the weather is sunny and dry, don't neglect your watering. Most flowers and shrubs need about an inch of water each week to perform well, and newly planted seedlings will perish if their roots are allowed to dry out.

Flowers need proper nutrients just like you do. One way to help your flower gardens come alive is to give them what they need… Flower Fertilizer.
 
Understanding Fertilizers in General:

Fertilizer is plant food (nutrients) for flowers, trees, shrubs, and other flora. Nutrients are available in various amounts in nature, and plant life needs these nutrients to survive and grow. The primary big 3 of the nutrients that plants need large amounts of are:

Major Plant Nutrients:

1.   Nitrogen

2.   Phosphorus

3.   Potassium

4.   [1] Nitrogen – This is the main nutrient for new green growth. This is especially important for plants that are mostly all leaf such as grasses. As a result the ratio for lawn fertilizers has a higher 1st ratio number meaning more nitrogen in the mix.

[2] Phosphorus – This nutrient promotes good root development and strengthens the flower or plant. It also results in increased blooms on flowers so lots of phosphorus is great for bulbs and perennials. Fertilizers higher in phosphorus have a higher 2nd number in the ratio.

[3] Potassium – This builds strong and healthy plants & flowers and improves the overall health of the flora.
 
These 3 are the ones that fertilizer manufacturers focus most on and they are known as “macronutrients”. There are also nutrients that plants do need but in much smaller quantities and these are known as “micronutrients”. The more important secondary nutrients are:

Secondary Plant Nutrients:

1- Calcium – Improves general plant vigor and promotes growth of young roots and shoots.

2- Sulfur – This nutrient helps to maintain a dark green color and encourages more vigorous plant growth.

3- Magnesium – This nutrient helps to regulate uptake of plant foods and assist in seed formation. It is also important in the formation of dark green color and encourages vigorous plant growth.

After the major and minor nutrients there are sometimes “trace elements” that play a role in plant nutrition. Trace elements play a role in helping to develop dark green color and healthy and vigorous plant growth. These “trace micronutrients” are:

Trace Micronutrients:

1.   Boron

2.   Manganese

3.   Iron

4.   Zinc

5.   Copper

6.   Molybdenum

Manure was once the dominant fertilizer and is still used but less frequently. Fertilizers in modern times are made either synthetically or organically (manure and or compost). The Macronutrients are given a ratio on the fertilizer bag to represent the proportions of the “big 3” that are present in a particular fertilizer mix.

For example, a 5-10-20 fertilizer would have 5% Nitrate, 10% Phosphate, and 20% Potash. If a particular flower or plant needed higher phosphate levels for healthy growth the middle number would go up (for example: 5-15-20).

Law of Minimum:

This law states that plant growth is controlled not by the total resources available, but by the scarcest resource needed by the plant or flower. In other words, extra amounts of plentiful nutrients do not increase a plant’s growth if the scarce nutrients needed were still lacking. Only by increasing the amount of the limiting nutrient can a particular plant or flower have improved growth.

Gardening activities in the month of February
Even though it may still be cold, damp and miserable outdoors, an occasional dose of sunshine could certainly put the gardening bug into you. With a little luck, Mother Nature will send a few blossoms your way this month. We are now at a time when we can no longer put off those garden projects, waiting for a nice day.

 Shrubs and trees
Deciduous shrubs and trees are still dormant enough to transplant this month, once the buds have begun to swell, it will be too late.

Trees which weren't fed last fall should be deep fed by punching a series of 1-2 inch holes two feet apart around the drip line and filled with an appropriate food. A mulch of well composted manure is also an excellent treat for your tree.

Mid to late February is the time to fertilize shrubs and evergreens. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.
Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

Prune your summer flowering shrubs now. Be careful as the spring bloomers have already produced their buds last fall, and pruning them now will result in the loss of flowers. The other early spring flowering shrubs should be pruned a little later, after they have finished flowering.


Pruning to improve the shape of the plant, as well as to open up the center of the plant to good air circulation and sun exposure. Always start your pruning by removing all dead, decayed or broken branches.

It's a good time to stroll around and trim back any branches that were damaged by the ravages of winter.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Plants which may have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave should be pressed firmly back into place.

Plant Daylilies, Bleeding hearts, and Plantain lilies this month.

Deciduous vines such as honeysuckle should be pruned and shaped.

Most perennials may be divided and moved up until they begin to show new growth.

Check your stored plants such as Fuchsias and Geraniums, and if they are shriveled water them lightly.

Summer flowering bulbs may try to start into growth if they are subjected to heat. They should be kept very dry, and stored at 10-15 degrees C. If they are shriveling, put them into slightly damp peat moss, but keep them cool!

If you plan to grow Lobelia, Ageratum, Verbena, Petunia, Vinca, or other slowing plants from scratch, the seeds should be started indoors in the later part of the month.


Climbing roses should be thinned out to get rid of last year’s tangled growth.

 Fruits and veggies

Rhubarb, Horseradish, Asparagus and Artichokes can be planted this month.

Grapes must be pruned by 15 Feb, to prevent sap 'bleeding'.

Strawberries can be planted as soon as they become available.

If you grow Currants, remove all trunks which are over 3 years old.

The vegetable garden should get its first tilling (if weather permits) to allow the weather to aid you in breaking up the dirt clods. Exposed weeds and seeds hopefully will perish.

Odds and ends
House plants may notice the longer days, and begin growing. You can begin feeding them again, but use a dilute 50% fertilizer mix until the growth is robust.

Continue feeding our feathered friends, you'll want them to stick around to help you in insect control when the weather warms again.

Did you check your garden tools yet? Don't wait 'til the spring rush to get your mower back in shape!
Indoor plants
Time to look after the indoor plants. These plants need more sunlight and a little bit of fertilizer. Bring them out in the sun for a week, apply a tea spoon full of low nutrient fertilizer (Depends on the size of the Plant), and water it.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

If you potted some bulbs, like Daffodils, Freesia, Gladioli, Hyacinths, Lilacs and Tulips, during September/October for winter forcing, keep an eye on them. Make sure they remain moist, and in the dark until they have established their root systems.

If they have already rooted and the new top growth has begun, bring these into the house and place these in a cool room, in indirect light. After a week or so, move them into bright light, and watch them go grow.

You may have dug up some corms and tubers in the months of October/November and stored these. Remove and discard any of these, which show signs of disease or rot.

Shrubs and trees
The likely hood of the winter rains makes a gardener ignore watering your garden. However, plants and shrubs which are growing beneath large evergreens or under the shades of the house may get dry.

Not watering these in the cold winter months can be fatal to many of these plants. Check the soil for moisture and if dry apply water.
The tender plants Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas get affected by sudden drop in the temperatures. Temporary protection can be given by driving in three or four stakes around the plant, and then covering the plant with some cloth, or plastic knitted sheet, ensuring that it does not come into direct contact with the leaves. The cover should be removed, once the weather improves.

House Plants
The glossy leaved house plants such as Philodendrons, Rubber plants, and Palms should be given a water spray and then sponge dried periodically, to allow them to breathe.

Lawns
Do not let the lawn grass dry out. Application of a daily water spray in the evening just before dusk will ensure that the cold frost does not kill it.


The Spring Festival of Uttarakhand and the much awaited Annual Flower exhibition will be as usual held on the lawns of the Governor House on 20-21st February, 2010. Do make it a point to visit it.   

A Gardener from USA has sent me some excellent recopies which I would like to share with all of you.  The recipe is based on Tomato. We have plenty of tomatoes available and at reasonable rate and it would be wonderful idea to give these a try:

Tomatillo Green Salsa
5 cups chopped tomatillos
1 1/2 cups seeded, chopped long green chilies
1/2 cup seeded, finely chopped jalapeno peppers
4 cups chopped onions
1 cup bottled lemon juice
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons oregano leaves
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and stir frequently over high heat until
mixture begins to boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 2O minutes, stirring
occasionally. Ladle hot into pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Adjust lids and
process in a boiling water canner 15 minutes at 0-1,000 feet altitude; 20 minutes at
1,001-6,000 feet; 25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 5 pints

You may use green tomatoes in this recipe instead of tomatillos.

Tomato/Green Chile Salsa
3 cups peeled, cored, chopped tomatoes
3 cups seeded, chopped long green chilies
3/4 cup chopped onions
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
11/2 cups vinegar
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons oregano leaves
1 ½ teaspoons salt
Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and heat, stirring frequently, until
mixture boils. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Ladle
hot into pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling
water canner 15 minutes at 0-1,000 feet altitude; 20 minutes at 1,001-6,000 feet;
25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 3 pints

Tomato Salsa (using paste tomatoes)
7 quarts peeled, cored, chopped tomatoes
4 cups seeded, chopped long green chilies
5 cups chopped onion
1/2 cup seeded, finely chopped jalapeno peppers
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups bottled lemon juice
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
2 tablespoons ground cumin
3 tablespoons oregano leaves
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro
Combine all ingredients except cumin, oregano and cilantro in a large pot and bring to a
boil, stirring frequently, then reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add spices and
simmer for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Ladle hot into pint jars, leaving
1/2-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling water canner: 15 minutes at 0-
1,000 feet altitude; 20 minutes at 1,001-6,000 feet, 25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 13 pints

This recipe works best with paste tomatoes. Slicing tomatoes require a much longer
cooking time to achieve a desirable consistency.

Tomato Taco Sauce
8 quarts peeled, cored, finely chopped paste tomatoes
2 cloves garlic, crushed
5 cups chopped onions
4 jalapeno peppers, seeded, chopped
4 long green chilies, seeded, chopped
2 ½ cups vinegar
2 tablespoons salt
1 ½ tablespoons black pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons oregano leaves
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Combine ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat and simmer,
stirring frequently until thick (about 1 hour). Ladle hot mixture into pint jars, leaving 1/2-
inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in boiling water canner: 15 minutes for 0-1,000 feet altitude; 20 minutes at 1,001-6,000 feet; 25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 11 pints

This recipe works best with paste tomatoes, as slicing tomatoes will yield a thin watery
salsa. If you only have slicing tomatoes available, use the Tomato/Tomato Paste
Salsa recipe. 


Tomato/Tomato Paste Salsa
3 quarts peeled, cored, chopped slicing tomatoes
3 cups chopped onions
6 jalapeno peppers, seeded, finely chopped
4 long green chiles, seeded, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 12-ounce cans tomato paste
2 cups bottled lemon juice
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons oregano leaves
1 teaspoon black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and
simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Ladle hot into pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch
headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling water canner. 15 minutes at 0-1,000
feet altitude; 20 minutes at 1,001-6,000 feet, 25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 7 pints

Chile Salsa (Hot Tomato-Pepper Sauce)
10 cups peeled, cored, chopped tomatoes
6 cups seeded, chopped chili peppers
4 cups chopped onions
1 cup vinegar
3 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Combine ingredients in a large saucepan. Heat to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Ladle
hot into pint jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling water
canner: 15 minutes at 0-1,000 feet altitude, 20 minutes at 1,001-6,000 feet; 25 minutes above 6,000 feet.
Yield: 6 to 8 pints

PLANTS FRIENDS:

Valentine's Day is around. Why not make your plants enjoy it by bundling them to gather: Here are a few great plants "couples" that will grow much better in your garden if planted together:

Tomatoes and Marigolds
Marigolds are so effective at destroying nematodes (which live in the soil, feeding on the roots of tomatoes and other vegetables) that one variety,
Golden Guardian, was developed specifically to attack them! But any Marigold will do the trick, and they certainly brighten up the tomato garden!

Roses and Onions
Anything in the Alliums family (garlic, chives, onions, etc.) is very beneficial to Roses when grown right alongside them. These plants chase away aphids and help protect against mildew and blackspot, two of the biggest foes of the Rose!

Cucumber and Corn
These mutually beneficial friends belong side by side in the garden! Cucumber keeps the raccoons away from the corn, while corn keeps away the virus that causes wilt from attacking the cucumbers.

Purple Coneflower and Black-eyed Susan
Otherwise known as Echinacea and Rudbeckia, these two native perennials love the same conditions — sun-soaked soil that's slightly on the dry side — and make a powerful pest-fighting team. Not only do they repel "bad" bugs, they encourage "good" ones. Consider designing a big stand of them near your vegetable patch!

               
Regards and happy gardening

No comments:

Post a Comment